What does omakase mean to you?

Omakase, for me, is a moment of deep trust and connection. It’s more than just a meal – it’s a conversation between the guest and the chef, without words. Growing up in my family’s restaurant in Yokohama, I learned that every detail matters. Omakase is an opportunity to craft something entirely unique for each guest, responding to their mood, the season, and the ingredients at hand. It’s fluid, personal, and alive – just like sushi should be.

You come from a long line of sushi chefs. What was your trajectory to opening your own restaurant in London? Has London informed the way you cook?

My journey began as a child, living above my family’s restaurant, always surrounded by the smells and rhythms of the kitchen. Though tradition expected me to take over, I did push against it—studying judo, loving punk music, even joining a band—but the kitchen always called me back. After training under my master and working around the world, I eventually found myself in London. The energy here is unmatched. It’s dynamic and diverse, which constantly inspires me. The Rotunda is a fusion of where I’ve come from and where I am now, rooted in Japanese tradition, but very much shaped by the spirit of this city.

How would you describe the experience of eating at the Rotunda? What is the most important part of providing such a consistently excellent experience for diners?

The Rotunda is an extension of my home – a place where every detail has been considered. With only ten seats at the counter, the experience is intimate and deeply personal. Everything is deliberate, meant to immerse guests in the world of Japanese craftsmanship. The most important thing to me is presence. I watch everything – not just the fish, but how my guests react, how they sit, what they need without asking. That awareness allows me to tailor each moment to them, making each service feel like the first.

You’ve previously spoken about onkochishin – the Japanese concept of looking into the past to inform the future. What are you doing at the Rotunda to move the needle and push the ancient art of sushi into new territory?

Onkochishin is a guiding principle for me. During our recent refurbishment, I spent time studying my grandfather’s old notebooks while also researching new techniques and visiting both old and new suppliers. We reduced the number of seats at the counter to create a more focused experience. And while I honour traditional methods, I’m constantly experimenting—finding new textures, flavours, and techniques to elevate what sushi can be, while never forgetting where it came from.

Does your uncompromising approach to provenance and attention to detail inform your own personal style? What do you look for in the clothing you buy?

Absolutely. Just like with sushi, I look for quality and authenticity in clothing. I’m drawn to pieces with a story – garments made with integrity and care, often by artisans who are masters in their craft. I prefer things that are understated but thoughtfully made. Like sushi, the beauty is in the detail – how a fabric drapes, how it’s stitched, how it feels when worn. It’s less about trends and more about timelessness and intention.

Quick Fire Five

Favourite restaurant: Helen Darroze at the Connaught

Favourite holiday destination: Spain

Favourite musician: YMO

Prize possession: My team

Biggest indulgence: Dressing up and going out